Artificial Turf Edging and Borders, How to Finish and Secure the Perimeter

This page is for homeowners and DIYers deciding how the edges of a turf lawn will be finished and held down. Edges are where turf fails first: they lift, curl, collect debris and let weeds in. You will be able to match an edging type to each border of your yard and choose a fastening pattern that keeps the perimeter flat for the life of the turf.

Why do turf edges need special attention?

Edges are the only place where the turf backing has no neighbor to hold it in plane. Wind gets under it, foot traffic pushes it outward, and thermal expansion pushes it against whatever it touches. Without a firm border, the base at the edge also erodes, so the outermost 6 inches of turf sinks below the rest and curls.

Edges also give weeds and grass runners an easy path in, which is why the border choice is partly a weeds through turf decision as well as a looks decision.

Which edging material should you use?

Ranges vary by region and product. Bender board, steel, paver and nailer figures are DIY materials; concrete curbs are usually a contractor job, so that figure includes labor. In front yards, where the edge is on show from the street, crisp steel or concrete borders are worth the premium.

Our decision rule:

• If the border is an existing patio, driveway or walkway, use the hard edge itself (tuck or glue).
• If the border is a planting bed with mulch or soil above turf level, use a rigid edge that stands 1/2 to 1 inch above the base to hold back soil.
• If the border is a curve, use composite bender board or steel.
• If you want a permanent separation from grass or groundcover that spreads, use a concrete curb or steel set at least 4 inches deep.

Bender board: how to install it under turf

Bender board is a flexible strip, typically 4 to 6 inches tall and about 3/8 to 1 inch thick, staked along the edge of the base. Set it before the base goes in so it acts as a form that the base compacts against.

1. Excavate a slit trench along the border to the full base depth plus 1 inch.
2. Set the board so its top sits at finished base height (or 1/2 inch above if holding back a bed).
3. Stake it on the outside every 3 to 4 ft with 12 to 18 inch stakes, screwing stakes to the board.
4. Compact base right up to the board, then nail the turf edge through to the base just inside the board, or screw the turf to the board's top edge if it is thick enough.

Composite bender board does not rot, which matters because the turf edge is fastened to it for 10 to 20 years. Wood bender board is cheaper but often outlives its strength long before the turf is worn.

Steel edging: when is it worth it?

Steel edging (usually 1/8 to 3/16 inch thick, 4 to 6 inches tall) gives the cleanest line and keeps its shape. It is driven into the ground with stakes that slot into the edging. The turf is cut to butt against the steel and nailed every 4 inches just inside it.

Watch out for the exposed top edge. Thin steel set above the turf can be sharp under bare feet. Set it flush with or just below the finished turf height, or choose rolled-top profiles in play and pool areas.

Concrete curbs and mow strips

A concrete curb is a 4 to 6 inch wide, roughly 6 inch deep strip poured along the border. It is the most durable edge and gives the turf a solid surface to fasten to. Turf is either glued to the curb face or tucked between the curb and base. Because the curb sits at finished height, it also makes a neat transition to beds and reduces soil washing onto the turf.

Turf against pavers, patios and walkways

Hard surfaces already make a strong edge. Two common methods:

Tuck. Cut the turf about 1/4 to 1/2 inch oversize, then push the edge down into the narrow gap between the base and the hardscape using a putty knife or tucking tool. This works when the base was set about 1/2 inch below the hardscape and there is a firm, straight edge to push against. It looks seamless and leaves no visible fasteners.

Glue or nail at the edge. Where there is no gap, trim the turf flush to the hardscape edge, then glue the backing to a strip of the base or to a nailer board, or nail 1 to 2 inches in from the edge. For edges along pavers with irregular profiles, see cutting around obstacles.

Nailer boards: hidden edges that hold nails

A nailer board is a pressure-treated board (often a 2x4 laid flat or a 1x4 on edge) set into the base along a hard edge or at a transition. The turf is nailed or stapled into the wood rather than into rock. This is the strongest hidden edge for windy sites, rooftop-adjacent areas and places where the base is shallow. Use ground-contact rated lumber and stainless or galvanized fasteners so the board does not rot or rust out before the turf.

Tucking vs nailing: which is better?

Many installers do both: tuck along concrete, then nail 4 to 6 inches inside the edge for security.

What perimeter nailing pattern should you use?

For galvanized 5 to 6 inch landscape nails into compacted base:

• Standard lawn: every 6 to 8 inches along the perimeter, 1 to 2 inches in from the edge.
• Windy, sloped or high-traffic edges: every 4 inches.
• Against bender board or nailer board: every 4 to 6 inches into the board.
• Corners: add an extra nail at each corner point and at each tight curve.

Drive nails between stitch rows, then pull any trapped fibers free with a pin. On a slope, edges at the top of the hill carry the most pull; see slopes and hills.

Common edge failures and what causes them

• Curling edges: turf not fastened close enough to the edge, or base eroded under it. Renail at 4 to 6 inches and backfill base.
• Gaps against concrete: turf trimmed cold and short; it shrinks in winter. Trim with the turf warm and relaxed.
• Soil washing onto turf: border too low beside a raised bed. Raise the edge or add a curb.
• Weeds along the perimeter: no root barrier at a lawn or groundcover border. Steel or concrete set 4+ inches deep helps.

More fixes are in wrinkles and buckling. If you are getting bids, ask each contractor which edge method they use on each border; it is a revealing question covered in hiring an installer.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need edging for artificial turf?

Along soil or planting beds, yes in almost every case. Without a border, the base erodes at the edge and the turf curls or sinks. Along concrete, pavers or walls you can usually skip separate edging and use the hard surface. A border also blocks creeping grass and holds mulch or soil out of the turf.

What is the best edging for artificial turf with curves?

Composite bender board and steel edging both bend smoothly to curves. Composite is cheaper and easier for DIY, while steel holds a crisper line and resists being pushed out of shape. For tight curves under about a 3 ft radius, steel with relief cuts or segmented edging is easier to shape than thick bender board.

How far apart should nails be on turf edges?

Most residential installs nail every 6 to 8 inches along the perimeter, about 1 to 2 inches in from the edge. Tighten to every 4 inches on slopes, windy sites, and edges that get heavy foot traffic or pets. Use 5 to 6 inch galvanized nails into compacted base, and longer spikes if the base is shallow.

Should artificial turf go over or under edging?

Typically the turf butts against or tucks behind the edging rather than lapping over it. Lapping turf over a raised edge leaves a hump and exposes the backing to wear. The edging's top should sit at finished base height or slightly above, with the turf trimmed to meet it and nailed just inside. This keeps fibers covering the joint.